This study aims at characterizing the distinctive features of a spatio-temporal nonlinear wave surface. We analyze wind-generated 3-D wave fields observed during the passage of an atmospheric front, which led to a wide directional spreading of wave energy. Data were acquired from the ocean research station Socheongcho-ORS (Yellow Sea) with a stereo wave imaging system. They include 3-D (i.e. 2-D + time) measurements of the sea surface elevation with high spatial and temporal resolution over a swath larger than any previous similar deployment. We examine the shape and the nonlinear properties of the wavenumber/frequency 3-D wave spectrum, and the characteristic spatial, temporal and spatio-temporal length scales of the wave field. We then focus on analyzing the probability of occurrence and the spatio-temporal size of the rogue waves we identified in the data. In particular, we provide for the first time an empirical estimate of the extent of the horizontal sea surface spanned by rogue waves. We also propose and assess a novel strategy to determine from the 3-D wave spectrum the vertical current profile, to be then used to map the spectrum on intrinsic frequencies.

Characterizing the signature of a spatio-temporal wind wave field

Bergamasco, Filippo;
2018

Abstract

This study aims at characterizing the distinctive features of a spatio-temporal nonlinear wave surface. We analyze wind-generated 3-D wave fields observed during the passage of an atmospheric front, which led to a wide directional spreading of wave energy. Data were acquired from the ocean research station Socheongcho-ORS (Yellow Sea) with a stereo wave imaging system. They include 3-D (i.e. 2-D + time) measurements of the sea surface elevation with high spatial and temporal resolution over a swath larger than any previous similar deployment. We examine the shape and the nonlinear properties of the wavenumber/frequency 3-D wave spectrum, and the characteristic spatial, temporal and spatio-temporal length scales of the wave field. We then focus on analyzing the probability of occurrence and the spatio-temporal size of the rogue waves we identified in the data. In particular, we provide for the first time an empirical estimate of the extent of the horizontal sea surface spanned by rogue waves. We also propose and assess a novel strategy to determine from the 3-D wave spectrum the vertical current profile, to be then used to map the spectrum on intrinsic frequencies.
File in questo prodotto:
File Dimensione Formato  
1-s2.0-S1463500318302257-main.pdf

non disponibili

Tipologia: Versione dell'editore
Licenza: Accesso gratuito (solo visione)
Dimensione 13.67 MB
Formato Adobe PDF
13.67 MB Adobe PDF   Visualizza/Apri
Characterizing the signature of a spatio.pdf

accesso aperto

Tipologia: Documento in Post-print
Licenza: Creative commons
Dimensione 2.23 MB
Formato Adobe PDF
2.23 MB Adobe PDF Visualizza/Apri

I documenti in ARCA sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.

Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: http://hdl.handle.net/10278/3704988
Citazioni
  • ???jsp.display-item.citation.pmc??? ND
  • Scopus 13
  • ???jsp.display-item.citation.isi??? 12
social impact